Variable Bush Viper

Atheris Squamiger

By Derek Morgan

Caging: I like to keep my adult vipers in relatively large and well-planted vivaria. Though inactive by day, they often forage at night and utilize the extra space. An enclosure that is 18X18X18” is ideal for an adult and allows room for the thick branches and/or thick-limbed plants that are necessary for them to exhibit any natural arboreal behavior. I like to use aspen mulch as a substrate because it is odorless, has very little dust, and clumps well. A good hide spot on the floor of the cage is necessary for daytime retreats. All snakes should be housed individually except for during breeding season.

Environmental conditions: A regular waterbowl will do as they do not soak and may not drink from it. Instead, they may prefer to be misted regularly for hydration, but mist lightly as these snakes prefer mild humidity. Along with mild humidity (around 40-50%), they also prefer mild temperatures. Daytime temps should be around 75-82 F, only using a spotlight when it is necessary to achieve these temps. When ambient temperatures are low, squamigers will bask, but when ambient temps are high no spotlight is needed and is actually unwelcome by them. Nighttime temps can drop to 70 F.

Feeding: Though they undoubtedly feed mainly on frogs and lizards in the wild, they will readily accept appropriately-sized prekilled or thawed rodents. Large, adult females will eat grown mice, while the males may be much smaller and require fuzzies. Babies are tiny and will feed on pinky parts (hams or heads). Babies and juveniles may need to be “tail-teased” in order to elicit a feeding response. This trick involves first tapping the baby snake’s tail with the food and then offering it to the animal.

Breeding: Apparently, breeding this species is relatively easy. I have witnessed separate breedings in May and September. The change in temperature, humidity, and pressure of the occurring seasons seems to be enough to trigger them to breed. If they do not breed under regular conditions or if you live in an area that does not experience seasonal variances, keep them dry and warm for several weeks then cool them and mist heavily for a couple of weeks. This should simulate the rainy season they experience in the wild and should stimulate them to breed. If copulation is witnessed, separate the snakes after a couple of weeks. Even if copulation is not witnessed at any time, separate the snakes after a month as they may have mated during the night, unknowingly to you. Gravid females may be very aggressive and may kill the male snakes. Gestation should be around 6-7 months and anywhere from 5-15 live babies may be expected.