July 6th, 2008

Daniel Stokkers in General Venomous

 

Once upon a time there was a large site called Herp-edia.com It was a bold effort to list all the reptile species of the world. It would also include species information, photos and care sheets. Well even 8 years after it was shut down there arent many sites out there that focus on education. Many fancy web sites competing for the commercial market of reptiles but all lack substance. Well Herp-edia.com is returning. I have started putting the pages back on the net. Over time I will bring the glory back to this site. Update changes in the past few years and continue to build based on its original efforts. To learn more about reptiles stop by Herp-edia.com

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March 25th, 2008

Spring is here

MHarris in Field Reports

Salamanders have started moving in upstate NY. So far, Jeffersons(hybrids) and spotteds are moving. One four-toed salamander has been found, as have several peepers and a wood frog. In another week, I expect to see wood turtles out basking.

Spotted Salamander

Jefferson Hybrid

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February 12th, 2008

National Reptile Association

Daniel Stokkers in General Venomous

I strongly feel that now is the time for the reptile community as a whole to come together and form an organization that will look out for and fight for our concerns. An organization with lobbyist and legal muscle. I understand than many are lining up behind the PIJAC and while i agree we need their help with the current fight. I dont feel in the long run their base will support future issues we will come in face with. I dont feel they will stand up for those who keep venomous, or large constrictors when it comes right down to it. I also know that Jeff Barringer is reorganizing the NRAAC yet again this worries me. We all know Jeff all to well and an organization that is solely funded and staffed by one company is dangerous.

I think it is especially important for those in the venomous community to act now and push for such an organization. Our group has run into legislation before that has not gotten the support of those in the non-venomous community. Its too easy for others to say I dont care if they dont allow Venomous or large constrictors.

But now they they are going after the most popular reptile kept “Ball pythons” the largest breeders in the industry that make the most money are all on the fire now. This is why I feel this is the perfect opportunity for us to push for and support the formation of such an organization that will fight for everyones rights. Take advantage of the massive funding base available to get such an organization off of the ground

I dont know how to start such an organization and honestly wouldnt want to start it. However i feel with the support and knowledge of the herp community as a whole such an group could be formed.

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January 5th, 2008

Test Post. Trinidad Blog Notice

MHarris in Field Reports

Female Bothriechis supraciliaris from San Vito de Coto Brus, Costa Rica.Hi All. Just a test post to make sure the blog is working. I’ll hopefully be posting every day or two from Trinidad starting next Wednesday. The trip starts on January 9th thru January 17th. The first 5 days are spent in the Northern Range with an emphasis on hunting bushmasters and other snakes, and then we head South to Caroni and Nariva swamps to hunt tree boas (Caroni), anacondas(Nariva) and Mata mata turtles (Nariva) and also various bird species.

Check back starting next week.

MH

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January 4th, 2008

Mojave Rattlesnake Crotalus scutulatus

Daniel Stokkers in Venomous Care
Mojave RattlesnakeHousing your snake: Housing of any venomous snake if of great importance. Be sure to have both a lockable room and cage when keeping this snake. Keeping venomous snakes is a huge responsibility. For more info on venomous cages please read our caging section.?
Enclosure: Of great importance that the cage is of solid construction and lockable. Single Mojave can be kept in a 2wX2lX1h cage allthough double that size would be better. Glass aquariums are not recomended for rattlesnakes.?
Heat: This is a desert species. Normally found in dry arid regons of the country. Temps should be in the 90s. You will only want to heat one side of the cage not worrying about the temp on the other side. this allows the snake to choose its own best temp range. Do not try to guess the temperature. You must use thermometers. Try to keep one placed in the cool end, the warm end, and at any other area where the snake spends most of its time. The hot areas should not exceed the maximum temperature by more than a couple of degrees.
Heating pads, people (not recommended) or ones developed especially for reptiles can be placed under half the tank. DO NOT use a hot rock as is. These “rocks” heat up to 105 F on the surface, capable of causing severe burns. Incandescent and other heat lights are impractical, they must be turned off a night (to create a drop in temperature) and they tend to bother nocturnal snakes. Snakes should be heated from below using a radiant heat source. You can supply radiant heat from below by many high quality reptile heating mats.. If the room temperature is always warm (in the low to mid part of the gradient required), then you may be able to make do with only one heat source.?
Humidity and Water: Always provide a bowl of water for your snake. This is usually all the humidity they will need. I highly recomend heavy crock style bowls as they are not easily tipped over. Disinfect the bowl before placing it back in the tank. Make sure that the substrate remains dry at all times. One of the problems experienced in keeping Mojave is that the substrate was kept too damp which can cause bacterial, fungal and respiratory infections. Mojaves need low humidity so a small water bowl is best. Rattlesnakes are not soakers so a 2″ bowl will sufice.?
Furnishings: Rattlesnakes like shelters of some sort. These should be provided in both the cool and warm ends of the tanks. They can be purchased at your local pet store. Shelters can range from rock piles, rocky caves, half-tubes of tree bark, and upside-down flower pots or you can use recycled facial tissue and other suitably sized boxes as they are easily disposed of and replaced when they get soiled, they just don?t look at nice. This is very important if the enclosure is in a high traffic area.?
Substrate: The most commony used substrate for rattlesnakes is newspaper and sand. Do not use cedar, redwood and possibly pine as they are toxic. Astroturf, outdoor carpeting, aquarium gravel and silica free sand are commonly used and should washed and dried before use. I personally prefer sand as it is their natural substrate and easiest to clean. Allthough usable i do not recomend aspen, bark or cypress as they hold too much humidity for this species. The real key to substrates is how difficult they are to clean and change, and how often you are likely to do it. Try to find the balance between providing interest and variety for your snake and what you can reasonably do on a least weekly basis.?
Feeding: As a general rule try to feed mice that are as big around as the widest part of your snake’s body. Start captive bred neonates on pink mice and feeding them is rarely a problem if purchased from a quality breeder as they will assure it is feeding well prior to the sale.? Frozen/defrosted mice are recomended over live mice, make sure to defrost completely (leave under a light, on counter, or soaking in warm water). Hatchlings should be fed twice a week and adults only once every 7-10 days. Hatchlings can be started on one/two day old pinkie mice. Rattlesnakes are hungrier in the spring and summer, slowing down during the fall and may stop feeding during the winter even though the may still be active.
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January 4th, 2008

Welcome to the Venom-Center.com Venomous Blog

Daniel Stokkers in General Venomous

This blog will be a new source of information about venomous reptiles. We plan on having multiple authors all writing about different aspects of venomous reptiles. Here you will find care articles, field reports, reviews and much more. Stay tuned as i get this online and rolling

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